Showing posts with label articles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label articles. Show all posts

RCBS #2: “CVD”s

Do you know what CVD stands for? You might think “Constant Velocity Drive”, but if that’s the case, it’s a misnomer. It’s no more “constant velocity” of a joint than a regular U-joint, or a dogbone flopping around in an outdrive. A real “constant velocity” joint is much more complex.

Constant velocity implies that, regardless of the angle, angular velocity at one end is always equal to the other. A regular Cardan joint, two pivots perpendicular to each other, will produce oscillations at an angle. Two cardans at 90 degrees of eachother will cancel this oscillation out, thus why dogbones are “flat”. But this only works if the angle at both sides are equal. For the rear wheels, toe and camber will mess that up slightly, but the front wheels have it worse, since they’ll be turning at much sharper angles.

Functionally, “CVD” axles perform identically to U-joint axles, dogbones, and slider shafts. So if not for “constant velocity”, what does “CVD” stand for? Costs Volumes of Dollars? Captured Vampires Dangle? Craving Violet Drapes? Nothing. It’s just a name now.

RCBS is a column where I rant about things in R/C that don’t make sense, but everyone accepts them anyway.

RCBS #1: Battery Numbers

A battery’s “capacity” is listed in “milliamp-hours”, which is a measurement of dialectic flux, not energy. This means a 7.4v 4000 mAh battery and a 14.8v 4000 mAh battery have the same “capacity”, even though the latter can store twice as much energy as the former! For racers who generally stick to one voltage, this isn’t a big deal, but for bashers who will experiment with 2s, 3s, maybe even 6s packs, a capacity measured in watt-hours, an actual unit of energy, will be more useful for comparing packs.

“C” ratings are ridiculous as well. You know “C” is a measurement of? Frequency. 1C ≈ 0.277 Hz. The number you actually want out of a battery is its discharge current, which should be measured in amps. Sure, you can calculate this by multiplying the C rating by the “capacity” in amp-hours, but why not just cut out the middleman! And as for the charging current, normally stated at “1C”, why not let the manufacturer suggest a current instead? They probably know best, since they made the damn thing.

Before: “7.4v 4200 mAh 65C”. After: “7.4v 31Wh 270A”

I’m not even sure why we bother with discharge rate anyway. What we really want to know is internal resistance…

RCBS is a column where I rant about things in R/C that don’t make sense, but everyone accepts them anyway.

RC Mini-tip: Get good tools

Just bite the bullet and get a decent set of screwdrivers. This Dynamite 1/16" driver's tip has worn down and even twisted while trying to unscrew a screw.

I'm not sure whether to be disappointed with the screwdriver, or impressed by the screw, which did not strip.

RC Mini-tip: Name decals

Print your own custom name decals with inkjet sticker paper. $0.50 per sheet at my nearby Fedex Kinko’s.

Generating the image is up to you.

RC Mini-tip: Shock stand

Four holes make a stand for letting air bubbles settle.

A body reamer does the job on this plastic toolbox.

RC Mini-tip: Even out tire wear

If your truck uses the same tires all around, rotate them frequently to have the tires wear evenly.

On most tracks, the tires on will wear faster on one side than the other. Be sure to rotate them in the same pattern each time. I do "back across".

RC Mini-tip: Prevent flat spots

Keep tires off the ground to prevent flat spots from forming in the foam inserts.

An upturned food container makes a cheap car stand.

RC Mini-tip: Buggy body fastening

Use hook-and-loop fasteners (“Velcro”) to attach a buggy body.

It’s much easier to get on and off than clips, and reduces fatigue on the nose of the body.

There’s more than one way to win a race

Somehow, I managed to come in second place last weekend, in a field with some very competent stock SCT drivers. This is especially peculiar when you look at the results:

Position Driver Laps Time Fastest Lap Behind
1 COLLINS, JOHN 19 6:14.647 18.543 None
2 ZACH MILLER 18 6:06.510 19.270 None
3 CARY CRONIN 18 6:08.978 18.437 2.468
4 MAGGIORE, MIKE 18 6:12.824 18.395 6.314
5 BRANDON DYCHE 17 6:03.586 18.632 None
6 FROST, ETHAN 17 6:15.874 18.961 12.288
7 DAVID WINKLER 16 6:09.866 19.951 None

What should really stand out there is that my fastest lap was the second slowest of all the drivers in that race. My fastest was 19.3 seconds and almost everyone else had fast laps in the 18s. How then did I come in second?

I never rolled over. Not even in the qualifiers! See for yourself:

Okay, I rolled a couple times, but I never required a marshal to get going again. By playing it safe on the corners and the jumps, I may have added a few tenths to my laps, but I saved all the time I would have lost by making a mistake. Something to think about next time you go for the triple.

RC Mini-tip: Heat shrink CVD pin retainers

Use large-diameter heat shrink to keep CVD pins from coming out.

Before resorting to this method, use thread lock on the CVD setscrew and tighten it down very securely. If that still doesn't keep the pin from sliding out, then try the heat shrink.

RC Mini-tip: Balance every time with better cables

If you’re using race-style packs, hack up the balance plug to make it easy to use.


Click images to enlarge.

Slice off part of the balance plug connector and you can plug it into larger ports.

RC Mini-tip: Faster shock oil changes

Use syringes to fill shocks with bleeder caps, without taking them off the car.

Drain the oil by removing the screw and compressing the shock. Insert the syringe and apply a little pressure on the plunger while cycling the shock up and down. You’re not trying to force the oil in, but to exchange the air in the shock with the oil in the syringe.

RC Mini-tip: 1/10th wing mount screws

You can use screws instead of clips for mounting wings securely.

Snip off the existing posts and drill holes slightly smaller in diameter than the screws you’re going to use.

RC Mini-Tip: Labelled hex wrenches

Use heat shrink to indicate hex wrench sizes.

Left to right: 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 0.05”, 1/16”, 3/32”.

Radios

The things that connect you with your car. Some are simple and bare-bones, and some are overloaded with features you’ll never use. Either way, radio choice is a pretty critical decision that often gets overlooked.

There are really only two things to consider when choosing a radio: comfort and features. By “features”, I mean settings, programs, and options; things that you can adjust to effect a noticeable change. By this measure, frequency hopping systems, channel resolution, and response rate don’t count. I’m talking about things like trims, dual rate, mixing, etc.


That rounded trigger is the reason I'm still using the DX4S.

Comfort is paramount in radios. Each one has a different shape, texture, and springiness that you may find awesome or annoying. Every radio is shaped differently, and it may take some experimentation to find one that fits your hand comfortable, and puts the wheel in the right spot. If the wheel is out of place, you won’t be steering as well, and if the trigger is oddly shaped, you might find yourself not braking as much as you should.

Features come second, and they can get overwhelming. Don’t get suckered in thinking about all the features you might use sometime in the foreseeable future. Get a radio with the features you’re actually going to use. What these features are really depends on your situation. For racing electrics, the only features you really need are steering trim and end point adjustment. The rest are just nice to have. For nitro, you will also need throttle trim and EPA, and maybe a third channel if you have a separate brake servo.

I’ll use Spektrum as an example, though I’m in no way endorsing their products. They just have a good range of surface transmitters that fit my criteria levels nicely:

DX2E – Steering and throttle trim, but no EPA. Without EPA, you may be missing out on extra steering that your car can give you. This is equivalent to most of the radios that come with RTRs.

DX2L – Adds EPA for both steering and throttle. If you’ve only got one car, this radio perfectly meets my minimum criteria for radio features. You can use this radio with confidence, knowing that it’ll be able to maximize your car’s potential. Even though they sell it, Spektrum doesn’t actually list this radio on their main site, but it comes with some of their RTRs, and you can buy the transmitter from them or easily find it on eBay.

DX3C – Adds model memory, critical if you have more than one car, and a third channel for brake servos. Also supports more technical features, such as steering/throttle exponential and programmable mixes, which are nice, but not really necessary. Why anyone would get a Spektrum radio higher up than this is beyond me.

Through a series of panicky rushed decisions, I’m currently using a DX4S. I bought it in a hurry because the radio I had planned on using failed two days before a race, and I hadn’t taken the time to research better options, like the DX3C or the FlySky FS-GT3B. Three hundred dollars of buyers remorse and two weeks later, the steering return spring snapped. I fixed it myself, instead of sending it in for six weeks of waiting for a warranty repair. By now, I’m used to the way the radio feels, and I’ve got too many installed receivers to switch to something else. I’ve replaced the steering wheel with a smaller one, and wrapped the grip to make it more comfortable to hold, but I still regret buying it.

It’s very easy to get lured into buying a radio that’s too expensive because of all the things you don’t need. However, your radio is going to be with you for a very long time, possibly your entire R/C career. You don’t want something low-quality, but you don’t want to get swindled by an expensive radio either, so think carefully when making your purchase.

Racing Classes - Stock SCT

There are plenty of different racing classes around for various driving styles and track conditions. I'll tell you what classes I'm racing in, and why.

I'm currently racing in Stock SCT and Stock Buggy on indoor clay surfaces, and loving it. I'm starting off with slower classes and eventually moving up to faster ones. Stock SCT is first, followed by Stock Buggy, which is considerably faster, and after that, I'll probably get into 4x4 SCT, which is both faster and more expensive!

Stock 2WD SCT

Stock SCT is the perfect class for new racers. It's slow and easy to control, so you won't be crashing into walls all the time, and you'll learn how to drive a line better. The full-fender body and bumpers lets them take crashes better and bump into other cars without causing a massive wreck.

Class rules:

  • 2S (7.4v) LiPo
  • 17.5 turn ROAR-approved 2-pole brushless motor
  • "Blinky" non-timing ESC
  • 2WD Short course truck

Why it's great:

  • It's slow - Being slow is an awesome thing. It makes your racing line extremely important. On a well-designed track, most of the jumps won't be possible unless you've maintained a lot of momentum through the corners. You don't have the option of "punching" it before a jump in hopes of clearing it. If you don't take the corners properly, you're not going to make it. Now, just getting around the track smoothly is a challenge, and challenges are fun. Once you get a feel for the track, you feel this sense of flow as every corner and jump blends into the next. The track becomes one continuous segment, and that is an awesome feeling... when you get it right.
  • The electronics don't matter - I've used a number of different stock motors, the cheapest of the cheap, a burned-out cheater, an RTR-inclusion, and a "top notch" bullet. Aside from the burned-out one, I genuinely haven't noticed a difference between any of them. With the exception of the semi-legal Trinity D3.5, which is definitely faster than the rest of them, I believe that any ROAR-approved 17.5 motor is going to be just as good as any other one. The same goes for speed controls. Since in this class, all ESC timing is banned, no ESC is going to be faster than another, as long as it can push enough amps. All timing is done directly off the readings from the sensor board.
  • It's cheap - You can absolutely go racing in stock SCT, and win, with $400. The 22SCT RTC is another good example; $600 for a race-winning truck out of the box. A top-of-the-line kit is $300 new, but I know many guys who started off with a $250 RTR, swapped the motor, and now race competitively. The slower speed of stock trucks also means fewer broken parts, as crashes are less severe. Compare this to 4x4 SCT, which seems like a common entry point for new racers. The truck itself is very expensive, as is the motor and speed control, which must be really powerful.

Why it sucks:

  • It gets expensive - This is common to all SCTs.  The two major expendable items are tires and bodies. Compared to buggy, SCT tires are $25/pair and buggy tires are $12/pair. SCT bodies are $40 and last a couple months; buggy bodies are $25 and last forever. I've found that SCT tires don't last as long as buggy tires either, but it depends on the track surface you're racing on and your mileage may vary.
  • It's slow - The low speed and power can be frustrating for some people. I've got no problem keeping up with the faster cars on the track, but for someone who can't keep to the line very well, they're going to be bouncing off jumps and coming short very often. Also, though it's entirely subjective, some people won't be happy with a "weak" car, and would rather spend more on a powerful motor. I don't really care about how strong and manly my toy car is, so I don't really find this to be an issue.

Though I’m starting to get back in to Stock Buggy, I expect to be racing in Stock SCT for a long time to come.